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2007-7-17 19:34:40 |
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Feather Flight Lanvin By Godfrey Deeny Fashion Wire Daily - Paris - A sure sign of a fashion design label dramatically taking off is when the hard core fans - the folks who crowd into the runway shows - suddenly start saying out loud how much they want to wear the label. Which is the state of affairs right now at Lanvin, where the men's collection has emerged as the one every insider and cognoscenti wants to wear. The demand is due to a confluence of positives, originality, comfort, elegance and grace. But above all it is that the clothes really do stand apart as a contemporary way of dressing for the current zeitgeist. In a season were far to many runways featured winter wools, military drab cottons and non breathing techno fabrics, Lanvin stood out for the remarkable levity of the raw materials, their breeziness, they way they literally fluttered in the wind. And, in a moment where everyone, including a Daft Doubting Thomas like the current POTUS, foresees a far warmer planet, it seemed logical and, excuse us, cool to make this a light as feather collection. The sense of lightness wafted through dove gray silk dress shirts with classy breastplates, pajama silk pants and butter soft leather jerkins - with putty gray the preferred hue. Lanvin's design duo, creative director Alber Elbaz and men's designer Lucas Ossendrijver again showed metallic footwear, but freshened the look with cobalt blue lace-ups, yellow gold dance shoes, gilded trim wingtips and even a dramatic briefcase that looked fashioned in a furnace. In the coming heat wave, and era of heavily taxed plane journeys, designers are seeing a lot more Alpine vacations, hiking trips, dejeuners champetres in Swiss meadows. That Alpine mood wafted through Paris - and led chez Lanvin to randonnee dusters or hooded leather jerkins for the sudden Matterhorn storm. For evening, Alber and Lucas, went with poet dandies, where voluminous pants and short, taut jackets came with fabric flowers on the lapels. But even these were almost insubstantial so light and floaty did they seem. Levity of product, substance in the aesthetic results - in a word, Lanvin. |
